Step 11 - Mount the cable

Before placing the Collarum™ in the ground, you should practice mounting the cable. Begin by placing the cable under the cinch spring hook and through the groove in the throw lever. There should be 2 or 3 inches of tail beyond the cinch spring hook for best results. The cable runs alongside the arms and should be lightly gripped by the clips. For the best lay,the cable side that ends at the lock should be under the anchored side of the cable.

Step 12 - Properly positioned cable.

For coyotes and large dogs, you need 7" - 8" of space between the bait cap and the cable to ensure the cable fires over the forehead. Once your trap is assembled, you may want to practice set and fire it a few times before taking it into the field. Again, protective eye wear, arm and hand protection are called for.

Step 13 - Uncock the trap

Before we go set this in the ground, I want to show you how to uncock the trap without actually firing it. Remember to keep pressure on the trigger. Begin by disengaging the cinch spring. Put the trap on a solid surface and place one hand over the throw lever and trigger dog and put body weight on that. Slowly lift up on the trigger with the other hand. This will allow the trap to fire in slow motion and give you control over how quickly it fires.

Step 14 - A well-made set.

Nearly all of the elements essential for successfully placing a foothold trap apply to the Collarum™ as well. Many books have been written and videotapes made of those, so I won't reiterate here. What I'd like to do is point out some considerations unique to this trap. I consider four elements in placing this device:
1) backing, 2) elevation, 3) slope, 4) space.

1) Backing:
By using natural features or enhancing the background behind the cable and around the bait cap, you can funnel or channel the canine's approach and pull. To capture canines with the Collarum, they must pull the cap from the "spring" side. If the pull comes from the side where the cable is unsupported it will hit under the chin and slide off. Even very small features in an otherwise open landscape can be used. Regardless of size, good backing is essential to the successful use of this trap.

2) Elevation:
I prefer the trap set 3" - 12" above the animal's foot level, e.g., just off the side of a worn trail. This means the bait cap is easier to investigate with the nose and mouth, and the canine is not as likely to paw. Elevation is nice, but not essential.

4)Space:
The cable requires adequate room for an unobstructed throw. Overhanging twigs, brush, etc. must be removed. The cinch spring also requires several inches of unobstructed space to fire fully. The trap can be used without the cinch spring, but the capture rate is decreased. (If the cinch spring is not used, the cable must be anchored close to the cable support arm on the same side the cinch spring would occupy. See Illustration 18.) Space for the cable throw is essential; space for the cinch spring is not.

Some sets have been nothing more than the Collarum™ spiked down on the ground surface then covered with dirt to resemble a freshly dug dirt hole. In most cases though, the Collarum™ is bedded in a shallow hole. Start by laying the trap in place to judge what needs excavating. Be sure to clear space beneath where the trigger will sit. All that's necessary for the cable is a shallow groove.

Step 15 - Nail down the throw mechanism

Once the hole is dug, the throw mechanism must be nailed down to prevent the animal from lifting it out of the ground as it pulls the bait cap. Nailing also prevents rotation as the cinch spring fires. Use the two holes in the base that sit alongside the trigger bar. Do not use the hole in the base where the cinch spring mounts. Hold down on the trigger during the nailing to prevent firing of the trap. Driving the nails at an angle to form an X underground gives good holding power. Soil conditions will determine how long and large a nail is necessary. In hard ground, 6" ring shank nails work well; in softer ground 8" rain gutter nails work. In very sandy soil you may need to deadman the trap. By using small nails the trap is less prone to damage because it can be pulled loose and kicked out of the way by the animal once it's captured. This will also decrease the chance of injury to the animal.

Step 16 - Anchor the cable

To anchor the cable, I normally use a Berkshire double-stake swivel at the end of an in-line spring. The spring adds cushioning to the system and should be used for live-capture applications. I anchor the cable in front of the trap. Other systems can be used, e.g., a bullet stake or an extension cable attached to a tree, etc.

Step 17 - Trap after firing

Whatever your system, the cable needs to be anchored such that the cinch spring pulls the cable tight against the anchor as it fires. If you use a cable extension this would mean you need to "pin" the cable near where the cinch spring mounts to the base.

Step 18 - Trap without cinch spring

If you choose not to use the cinch spring because of lack of space or very hard soil conditions, the cable should be staked to the side of the trap, near where the main coil of the cinch spring would sit if it was being used. (Not using the cinch spring will result in a decreased capture rate in most circumstances.)

Step 19 - Cover the springs

After mounting and anchoring the cable, I place a cover over the springs to keep them grit free for better firing.

You can now cover the trap. My motto is: light is right! Cover the cable support arms and throw mechanism with material that will remain loose and unfrozen, much as with any bedded trap. Whenever possible, I use local vegetative matter to lightly cover and disguise the cable--keeping it free from freezing in place. Large clods, clumps, rocks, etc. can be placed inside the cable loop and around the bait cap. This area remains unaffected by the firing, and soil compaction or freezing is less critical. I generally place something over the spring area to discourage the canine from stepping on it when it's pulling the cap. Cactus pads, thorns, sticks, stones all work well for this. This is a worthwhile precautionary measure, but not essential. The set's now ready for baiting.

Step 20 - Ready for baiting

This trap will only be effective if you can get the canine to bite and pull the cap. I've found it works well to place a strongly scented lure a few feet from the cap, then a milder, sweeter bait on the cap itself. I want the animal to roll, scratch, pee, etc. away from the cap then come to the set ready to bite. I'm sure every area has its own knowledge and lore concerning what baits will work, and what type of bait cap will work. Trappers who've used M-44's will have some tips for you. Dogs have been successfully trapped using a piece of steak wired to the cap. Coyotes have been taken using dog food as bait. Marshmallows dipped in scent as a pre-bait and then as the pull cap bait has worked for M-44's. Some studies have shown that coyotes are attracted to objects that visually contrast with the background, i.e., a white cap and a dark background, or dark cap with a snowy background.